9 respuestas en este tema

[DeFiNiTiVo]

Hola,

 

   Estaba pensando en poner algo para bajar algo el vtec y la mezcla (no mucho en vista de que no es tan sencillo en el S) en el EP3 lo tenia 1000 rpms por debajo de stock.

He leido sobre ambas "controladoras" y no veo ninguna diferencia relevante.

 

Alguien que las tenga montadas me puede decir si "funcionan" he leido que la ecu de serie bloquea los cambios por el odb2 y no sirven de nada...

 

También he visto la emanage ultimate, pero ya me parece demasiado complicado de configurar.

 

 

Un Saludo

[Ivan84]

Defini me parece que el vtec del s no se puede bajar mediante la apexi ehhh, hay gente que si lo hace en los civic eg,s, yo creo que para mofificar ya esas cosas te tendrias que ir a una ecu sin ser oem pero bueno que te hable alguien mejor de ese tema ya que yo con la electronica no voy a muchos sitios jejjeje, pero vamos a poca x decir nadie e visto yo que modifique la entrada de vtec en un s2000.

[deibit]

pero vamos a poca x decir nadie e visto yo que modifique la entrada de vtec en un s2000.

nadie?

[DaNié]

Yo monté la apexi afc neo hace 5 años o asi...es muy muy muy simple...yo al final ni la regulé ni nada...la monté y desmonté y creo que es lo mejor que pude hacer. Si no entendí mal en un post de hace 4 o 5 años..la apexi lo que hace no es cambiar el parametro de la ecu...sino cambiar los parametros que lee la ecu para que la ecu modifique los parametros. No Deibit? era algo asi no? aparte de no poder tocar encendido..etc..lo dicho muy muy simple. Yo me ahorraba la pasta!

[deibit]

La Apexi es "una guarrada", solo podrás ajustar fuel en open-loop. En closed-loop no habra manera porque la ECU empezara a "luchar" contra la Apexi desajustando lo que la Apexi ha ajustado, hasta dejar los parámetros como la ECU de serie quiere, y no como tu la hayas configurado.. la única solución es volver a resetearla al cabo de un tiempo (aun así, no me fiaría para nada en como queda el coche durante esa lucha)

 

Hay algunos tuners que para evitar el re-aprendizaje, lo que hacen es modificar el porcentaje del TPS en que se activa el open-loop... (si la Apexi ya es de por si una guarrada, con esa chapuza ya es superguarrada)

 

Eso no pasa con otras Piggyback (como por ejemplo la eManage Ultimate).. esas mantienen los settings en open-loop o en closed loop.. es mas.. las puedes hasta configurar para que ajusten la mezcla a través del feedback de una sonda de banda ancha, tanto en closed-loop como en open-loop (pero para eso necesitaras a un tuner que lo sepa hacer bien)

 

Y después esta lo que dice Danie.. no podrás avanzar el encendido.

 

Resumiendo.. en la práctica solo podrás ajustar VTEC y mezcla (y la mezcla, en la practica, solo en open-loop)
 

[DeFiNiTiVo]

Bueno, pues que le den a la Apexi.

 

  EN EL CIvic llevaba una PRB Kpro, que de saber que me habria valido en el s2000 me la habria quedado jajaa (ojo q no sabia que iba a comprarme uno en aquel momento.

 

Alguien con experiencia con la Emanage?? jajaja

 

[DeFToNYc]

Mirate también la opción de la FlashPro.

[deibit]

La flashpro es la mejor opción, pero sólo sirve para S2000 a partir del 2006.

[Type.r.2005]

Extraido del foro EVANS tuning:

 

Well now that I am officially unemployed I have some time to make more threads on stuff I know about. I wrote this for a few of my S2000 friends who wanted to know so thats why there is a reference to S2000 stuff. So I decided to do an article on the AFC and tuning it since many have asked me about it. This is just a basic how to. Feel free to add any knowledge or insight in your findings. This is more for a VAFC than SAFC but most of the info applies to both .

What is an Apex'i VAFC - Basically it is a digital fuel controller that can adjust Fuel and Vtec engagement. It actually cant adjust fuel it adjusts air correction, but I didnt want to confuse people.

How does it work - The VAFC is soldered/connected into the existing wiring harness right before the ecu. When enabled the AFC changes the map sensor voltage that the ecu sees. Basically you use a 1.75bar map sensor on a stock honda which reads between 0-5Volts. When you accelerate the map sensor is sending a voltage reading to the ecu telling it how much pressure is coming into the intake manifold. By manipulating the voltage you can change the air correction which in return changes fuel.

Whats tunable with the AFC? Here is a common misconception with the AFC's that I see all the time. People believe that they can tune their car in all aspects with this device. It is just not true. The only thing you can truly tune with this is vtec engagement and Open Loop (WOT) tuning. Partial throttle tuning is worthless.

You have two ways the ecu works; closed loop (ecu reads from o2 sensor) and open loop (No o2 feedback). When in closed loop (normal driving) your ecu takes readings from your o2 sensor to adjust for better mpg and daily driving. So when you change the voltage signal to try to adjust closed loop operation the o2 sensor will send a signal back trying to compensate to get back to a stoich (14.7:1 A/F) reading. That is why its worthless to change this, but when in Open Loop or Wide open throttle your ecu reads straight from the map sensor and uses pre-programmed maps from Honda built into the ecu to run the car. This is where making adjustments will work well.

Ok now that you have an understanding of what, why, and how. I will get into the basics of setting up and control of the device.

Here is a pic of all the functions of the VAFC and how to get to them.


Now you can see there are 3 main modules: Monitor, Settings, and Etc.

Key functions: This is a basic description of the buttons of an AFC. You have the 4 arrow keypad and then the next/prev buttons. Basically you move around the main screens with the next and previous buttons, then the keypad is used for manipulating the functions within the modules (ie. NE points/vtec/etc are functions)

Monitor: This is where you can monitor all the sensors (Up to 4 at a time). They can be displayed in numerical, graph, or gauge form. I usually just monitor two at a time because you can change the mode to peak and hold (explained later). The rev. -y is a graphing trace mode. I never really use it but its a cool feature.

Setting: This is the module that controls many of the functions like NE Point/ Vtec/ WOT/Narr throttle corrections. You will use this the most since this is where you will adjust the % changes and correction values for tuning.

Etc. Finally this is where you setup all the sensors and car type. Make sure for all hondas that the sensor type is 6in 6out, the car select is 4 and the arrow is pointing northeast. Then you can go to sensor check and make sure the AFC is reading them all correctly. After the initial setup is done you are ready to setup everything in the Setting module.

**If your AFC isn't reading the sensor voltage or isnt working go back and check your wiring**

I am going to assume that your VAFC is now working properly and the car is all ready to go. Keep the car in accessory mode while you setup all your sensors and beginning settings.

Where to Start?: Well now that you know how and where you can tune you have to setup the NE points. These are the points that will let you adjust the changes. The AFC only gives you 8 so you have to choose wisely where you put them. Any points in between will be extrapolated (meaning the AFC will pick the closest value in between each point). NE-HVT are the only points we are going to adjust since the LVT we wont be tuning. HVT meaning high cam (after vtec). For an S2000 since they tend to run rich up top I would say put the points anywhere from 5500-9000. You will have to do each point from lowest RPM to Highest.

Now that you have that you want to setup the TH-Point. This is the point where you go from low throttle to high and high to low. Some people do them high like 90% but I usually do around 70-80% since thats usually around when closed loop is disabled by the ecu.

Now you can set VT-Cont. Stick with a stock value (I believe it is 6000rpms) and make the vtec exit rpm like 200rpms below.

VT-Unmt - This is used when you have switched your vtec different from stock. I have changed vtec and adjusted this and seen no gains, and then some gains. It really depends on the car. I don't use this feature as much as some.

Now you are all set to tune the car. Using Wide Thr setting you can change the %. Remember +% adds fuel (richens) and -%subtracts it (leans). **Do not make changes without being able to verify with a wideband or dyno you risk your engines life**

Tuning Tips:

Vtec: Best thing to do to tune Vtec is change the vtec point to like 4000 rpms and do a dyno pull. Then change it too 8000rpms and do a pull. Where the torque curves intersect is where you want to put your vtec. This is where the smoothest curve will be. It may not sound or pull as hard as your butt dyno thinks, but you will be making more power. Vtec is supposed to have a nice linear pull without dips or spikes in the graph.

Fuel: Do a pull on the dyno to see what it looks like with all the points at 0%. Then make small percentage changes in areas that are rich. Ideally for an N/A motor you want an A/F ratio around 13-13.5a/f. This is where most N/A engines make the most power. Again this can change between motors. Some like it richer where some like a little leaner. Once you are around a nice A/F flat line you are done tuning.

Final Notes: This is a really helpful device for those who have a decent setup. Using it on a stock Honda you will see minimum gains (5-10whp) if that. Don't expect to tune this and get 50whp with boltons. It is not going to happen. Well I hope you all benefit from this post. I know it might be a little confusing to some, but once you play around with it for awhile you will get the hang of it. I used this device for 2 years before I went with a standalone. I have used it for N/A and Turbo Setups.

Happy Tuning,

-Nate-

[Storm]

Extraido del foro EVANS tuning:

...

 

Muy bien pero citen SIEMPRE la fuente:

http://www.evans-tun...topic.php?t=803