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SOME PROBLEMS / SOLUTIONS REPORTED BY HONDA & BY OWNERS
The majority of owners have not experienced any major problems with the Honda S2000. Given the demands put on such a car, it's a testimony to its reliability. However, every car has some problems to sort out and the S2000 is no exception. Please keep in mind Technical Service Bulletins (TSB's) are not considered a Recall. Their purpose is to provide a source of more information for dealers.
The following is from The Center for Auto Safety (founded in 1970 by Consumers Union and Ralph Nader) : "When its cars have defects, Honda often uses secret warranties under which only consumers who complain loudly get reimbursement. Look for the code phrase 'Any repair performed after warranty expiration may be eligible for goodwill consideration by the District Service Manager' in Honda Technical Service Bulletins to indicate the possible existence of a secret warranty."
The following are some of the reported problems and solutions as reported by Honda and by owners:
1 SHIFTING
A number of owners, especially the early years, reported either a notchy feeling or actual grinding when shifting in the lower gears since the car was introduced. Others report it is the smoothest shifter ever.
Soon after it's intro, Honda issued Technical Service Bulletin 00-055 (Transmission/Driveline) covers Grinding When Shifting into 2nd Gear. The fix reportedly worked for some but not everyone. The early '00 cars needed a small change to the sleeve to make the synchros work a little harder. Cars after VIN VT006255 have the new parts. Some owners believe the grinding condition may be trigger by hotter weather, i.e., 100 degrees +. In Portugal, February 2000, owners received a letter stating Honda detected in some Honda S2000 the gearbox may malfunction. The symptom was difficulty in engaging 1st or reverse. This situation may occur due to a deficient lubrication inside the gearbox. Normally, this deficient lubrication only happens after driving for sometime at high speed. There, but not in the US, a modified gearbox was installed.
Mixed reports continued to come in on the '02 transmissions. When a new 2002 owner questioned the notchy feeling between 2nd and 3rd gear he was advised all was normal: " The transmission shift mechanism inside has very short throws with rods and detents. These shift rods are held into correct position by detent balls with stiff spring pressure to prevent transmission from slipping out of gear during acceleration. The transmission function is correct at this time and no repairs are recommend by Honda Technical Assistance."
Some owners, including myself, can report a transmission fluid change, using Honda MTF, all but eliminated 3rd gear notchiness.
Here's some background info on the demands on the S2000 synchros's, as explained by a Honda engineer, Woodwork, and his suggestions:
"Since the engine revs to 9000 rpms, it means the transmission main shaft and clutch disk are also revving to 9000 rpm. When you push in the clutch pedal to disengage the clutch and shift from 1st to 2nd the engine and the transmission are disconnected. At the same time, the engine slows down from compression as you lift off the throttle. The transmission main shaft, no longer connected to the engine, is freewheeling in the transmission. Given enough time the main shaft will slow down but not as fast as the engine. The counter shaft is connected to the rear wheels and the speed stays constant during the shift. When you shift into 2nd gear, the 2nd gear synchro must "slowdown" the transmission main shaft to match the engine speed when the shift is completed and the clutch is engaged. The transmission main shaft and the clutch disk together weigh 19.75 lbs. (not including the pressure plate and flywheel that are connected to the engine). When you shift from 1st to 2nd at 9000 rpm the engine speed drops to 5900. That means that the little brass synchronizer rings have to push on the 2nd gear to slow the main shaft from 9000 rpm to 5900 rpm. It not only has to slow down the main shaft it has to do it in the time that it takes you to shift. So if you have a tendency to shift fast you may be making the sleeve blow past the synchro rings before it has a chance to do it's job and it will smash into the 2nd gear.
Grinding in any car is possible if the synchros have been damaged and now are not able to slow down the main shaft properly. Shifting without the clutch, or, shifting too quickly and not letting the synchros do their job may permanently damage the gear, sleeve and synchros and make the 2nd gear grind more often. It makes sense that if your shifting at 6000 rpm, it makes the engine speed drop 1700 rpm or 4300 rpm; so you should give the 2nd gear synchro twice the time to do the shift from 9000 rpm. If your car does grind once in a while you may not want the transmission removed, disassembled and a new 2nd gear put in. If it does it quite often, show it to the dealer and have it replaced. If you hesitate for another ½ second while putting constant pressure on the shifter and allowing the 2nd gear synchro to do it's job, I'll bet many of your cars would not grind any more."
Here's an excellent summary from a fellow owner:
• The first and most basic consideration is proper clutch/throttle/gear shift synchronization and coordination. Your clutch action must be choreographed fairly precise with your gear shift movement and also in consort with the throttle action.
• If your tranny fluid is getting a bit old, try changing it to some fresh stuff. This will help.
• Are you holding the shifter with pressure to the left and keeping it firmly planted on the left guide rail the whole time you are shifting? The gates on this tranny is very narrow. Keeping the shifter "forced" against the left guide on the 1-2 shift will better ensure that you are hitting 2nd gear squarely.
• If you shift at very low rpms (like below 3500-4000), you will notice that the shift can be a bit more notchy than usual, hence requiring you to slow the shift down a bit. Because of this propensity toward notchiness, it also increases the chances of getting a slight grind. Try to hold your rpm a little longer till maybe closer to 5000 rpm before shifting. I'm not saying you should do this exclusively but only as a technique to see if it makes your issues subside.
• And then there are some of the more subtle but proven items to try. Pull your seat up a couple of notches closer to the pedals so you ensure a good clutch application. Try not to "ram" your shifts but rather pull the shifter "almost" into gear and then hesitate for a split second before "helping" it the rest of the way, especially if you are in the habit of shifting at low rpms.
2 WINDSHIELD MOLDING
Technical Service Bulletin 00-064 (Body) for Deformed Windshield Molding. This revision updates applicability to include '01 S2000's.
3 CONVERTIBLE TOP NOISE
Technical Service Bulletin 01-037 (Body) for Wind Noise or Rattle at the Convertible Top. For all '00 and '01 S2000's, replace convertible top strikers with hardtop strikers.
4 CONVERTIBLE TOP LOOSE
Technical Service Bulletin 00-064 (Body), Convertible Top Cover Comes Loose. For all '00 and '01 S2000's, adjust the convertible top lowered position stops.
5 CLUTCH SPRINGS
Some owners report Buzzing while slowing down. The complaint is that there is a "buzzing noise" noise on deceleration at 4000 RPM to 3000 RPM. The correction is to have the clutch disk changed. The springs in the disk help isolate the pulses from the engine during deceleration. The pulses "excite " the gears in the gear box which make the noise as they vibrate against each other. The quality of the spring isn't the issue, it is the strength of the springs that has been changed.
6 SEAT BELT RECALLS
There are numerous Technical Service Bulletin's on Seatbelt related issues for certain '00 S2000's. There were two recalls: One for the seat belt and another for the boot cover. The former involved stripping down the cabin and fix the seatbelt retracting mechanism, the latter replacing the cover. Reportedly 4,930 MY '00 S2000's were recalled because the belts do not retract properly with top down (00V-016).
6A SEAT BELT SQUEAKS & CHATTER
A number of owner's report squeaks caused by the seatbelt(s) rubbing on the seat leather. In some cases, the leather has been replaced. Several people have complained about the noise from the passenger side seatbelt hitting the door when driving alone. One solution is to slide the metal piece to the top of the seat and let it sit on the "shoulder" of the seat, it will stay there (even in aggressive driving) and not make a sound.
7 OIL CONSUMPTION
Honda has asked it dealers to Tell Customers About S2000 Oil Consumption. Due to the high performance nature of the '00 and '01 S2000, its engine can consume a quart of oil in 1,000 miles when driven at high rpm. So Honda suggests S2000 owners follow these guidelines:
7A CHECK LEVEL. Check the engine oil level every time they fill the fuel tank.
7B READING DIPSTICK. Be aware that the oil dipstick goes through the cylinder head, so engine oil draining back into the oil pan can wet the dipstick and give deceptive readings. So look at both sides of the dipstick, and then use the lowest reading.
7C CONSUMPTION. During the first 600 miles (the car's break-in period), the engine may consume even more than a quart of oil; customers should add Honda 10W-30 or other high-quality petroleum-based oil of that viscosity to the factory-fill oil, as needed to restore the oil to the proper level.
7D WEIGHT OF OIL. For optimum fuel economy and year-round engine protection, customers should use only the 10W-30 weight of engine oil. This is a revision from the 5W-30 recommended in the owner's manual.
7E BREAK-IN OIL. Because the piston rings, piston rod bearings, cam bearings, and crankshaft main bearings continue to "break in" during the first 5,000 to 7,500 miles, factory-fill oil is provided in the engine of the delivered car. The factory-fill oil has special additives, so it should be left in the engine until the first oil change: 7,500 miles, under "Normal Conditions."
Reportedly, the oil is slightly thinner than normal and contains more Molybdenum to provide the "slipperiness" that thinner oil may lose.
7F OIL CHANGE. If the oil is changed at 3,500 miles because the car was driven under "Severe Conditions," replace the factory fill oil only with 10W-30 petroleum-based oil.
7G SYNTHETIC OIL. Do not use any synthetic oil for the first 7,500 miles. Synthetic oil is excellent protection for the car's engine, but it should not be used before 7,500 miles since it will not allow the rings, bearings, etc. to "break in" properly.
Honda claims that synthetic oil is too slippery to seat the rings properly (seating the rings refers to the rings shaping themselves to the precise size of the bore). The lubricating qualities of synthetic oil coupled with the engine design prevent the rings from properly seating if you switch to synthetic too soon. Also, the break-in oil has special additives, so try to keep it in for 7500 miles if possible.
7H MORE ON CONSUMPTION. Some S2000 engines will consume more oil than others depending on the tolerances inside the engine. The rate of oil consumption will taper off between 5,000 and 10,000 miles.
8 ENGINE FAILURE IN #4 CYLINDER
A small number of owners, approximately three dozen are known, report major engine failure due to the #4 Cylinder Scoring.
One of the frustrating things about this major failure is how some customer's are treated when it does happen. For some it has become necessary to prove they were not a fault! For others, repairs were painless.
If you hear an engine noise that is very distinct and sounds like tapping. The engine will not last long after you hear the noise. You can hear the noise in the cabin, but it best noticed with the hood up, the noise will come from the bad cylinder area. If your engine makes a bad tapping sound, Honda should pull the plugs and see if all are a nice gray white or one shows black from incomplete combustion. If a plug is blackened, they should put a scope inside the spark plug holes and see if they can see some cylinder damage.
The cylinder wall scuff problem in Honda S2000 typically has shown up in the #4 cylinder. Naturally, Honda has not shared with the public what is causing the problem, assuming they know. But it's likely a piston / cylinder / lube / cooling related thing. Factors such as metallurgy, tribology, material compatibility may be the issue. Why only number 4? Something is different about what that hole experiences compared to the others.
If you're too low on oil, the first thing to give in is classically the rod bearings, followed by the mains. The top end and pistons/cylinder walls fail from the lack of lubrication much later than pressure fed bottom end bearings. In a way the bottom end bearings act like a fuse for the other stuff.
If the engine failure is due to over revving, the top end would tend to get hurt – bent valves and such. But the bottom end may survive. It certainly won't develop the cylinder wall scuff problem from an over rev.
BTW, as of March 2003 there have been at least two known engine failures which has the new 4-hole oil banjo bolt installed (which some owners felt would cure the problem).
9 DRIVERS WINDOW AUTO DOWN MALFUNCTION
Technical Service Bulletin 01-008 for Driver's Window – the Auto Down not operating properly. A 'large' number of owners report this problem on '00, '01 and '02 models. A significant number of owners continue to have the problem repeat after having repairs. A temporary fix seems to be to raise and lower the window several times, after which the auto may begin working properly again.
Here's an update, dated July 2003 from a Honda engineer, Woodwork:
The facts are this:
The auto down uses a pulser.
The pulser stops working.
The window regulator manufacturer changed the pulser.
The first new regulator worked for a while then the same situation.
It is an intermittent situation.
It is a heat related situation.
It is not a water situation.
It goes down far enough to not bother the operation of the roof.
The new part is here and I like the design.
The Service Bulletin 01-008, last revised April 29, 2003, has been updated online and your dealer will be able to get the new part number. The cars built after (03 model year): JHMAP114*3T002606 already have the new regulator. The dealer just has to remove the door panel, 3 or 4 screws, a few clips and a couple bolts and a wire harness. Not rocket science. To answer others questions: Yes, the regulator must be showing the symptom to get it replaced (I have to answer that way), but sometimes it is intermittent, so…… if it is intermittent then tell the dealer that it is intermittent. If the dealer gives you any static about replacement, have the dealer call techline. If they tell you it is anything but the regulator ask them to call techline.
When you go to the dealer, tell them the bulletin number, the (electronic PDF) bulletin states that the new parts just came out. (the old parts were pulled from the warehouses) New part number: 72250-S2A-A03. Old part number is A02.
10 WATER LEAKING ONTO CARPET (AIR-CONDITIONING)Technical Service Bulletin 00-083 for Air-conditioning Leaks Onto Passenger's Carpet. When the AC is on maximum in humid conditions, condensation builds up on the condenser. The fan (on max) blows the water into the heater box which isn't water tight. The water leaks from the heater box into the passenger compartment. Reportedly the fix is to get Dupont waterproof paste and tape to waterproof the seam of heater box. Applies to '00 and '01 models.
11 DIFFERENTIAL
A small number of owners claim the car has a Weak Differential; other's argue it's how it's driven and not the car.
12 BUMP STEER
Some owners report the suspension has Poor Bump Steer Tendencies; other's argue it's how it's driven and not the car.
13 SNAP OVERSTEER
Some owners report the suspension has Snap Oversteer Tenancies; other's argue it's how it's driven and not the car. Some owners report this is less of an issue with other high-performance rear tires with different sidewalls. Some owners report very low mileage cars being out of alignment (camber, caster, etc.), thus owner's experiencing handling problems should consider checking this. The British press were tough on the S2000 when it first came out, and the British dealerships issued a TSB to change the alignment spec's for British cars. In 2002 the British spec car now is reported to have a different alignment then the prior two years. The USA car has maintained the same specs for all three model years – '00, 01, and '02.
14 PAINT PEELING
A small number of owners report Paint Peeling or scrapping off where bumper and body meet.
15 LOOSE SPARK PLUGS
A small number of owners report major engine failure due to Loose Spark Plugs. An even larger number report finding loose spark plugs when checked. Some owners believe Honda's recommended torque setting may be too low and the this has be brought to Honda's attention. AHM issued a TSB # 02-042 dated July 10, 2002. It applies to all 2000-2001, and 2002 from #0026 to #6983. This TSB involves a simple spark plug replacement, where new spark plugs will be tightened to 18 lb-ft (an increase of 5 lb-ft over the original 13 lb-ft-lb spec.) This is free of charge.
16 OIL FILLER CAP OFF
A number of owners report the Oil Filter Cap Vibrating Off if not tighten down good. The speculative causes range from the gasket misaligning when being replaced, engine vibration loosening, and just sloppy work by the dealerships.
17 LOOSE OIL FILTER
And a small number of owners report finding the Oil Filter Loose.
18 FENDERS DENT EASILY
Some owner's report caution should be used when performing engine or transmission work on the S2000's as the Fenders Are Susceptible To Small Dents if the mechanic is not careful.
19 OIL DIP STICK POPPING UP
Some owner's report finding the Dip Stick Has Popped Up, thus allowing oil to be blown out into the engine compartment. Reportedly wiping the rubber o-rings before reinserting may help and ensuring it is fully engaged.
20 SHIFTING DIFFICULTIES WHEN COLD
Owner's report Shifting Difficulties When Cold, i.e. winter time. Generally this is considered normal with manual transmissions when cold. However, it may be cause by the clutch is not fully coming disengaged when it is cold. One test is to turn off the engine and see if it goes into gear easier. If it does then it may be the clutch. Another suggested test you can try: With nothing in front of the car (in a level parking lot) with the engine running open the door and take your foot off of the brake. Now when putting the shifter into 1st watch the ground to see if the car creeps forward any. If it does then the clutch isn't fully disengaging. The only way to fix this is to take the transmission out and clean the splines of the main shaft and clutch disk. If the splines are dirty they get cleaned off when the transmission comes out which destroys the evidence of dirt/etc on the splines but this should correct the problem.
21 SPRING SPACERS USED IN SHIPMENT NOT REMOVED
Several owner's have discovered the dealership Did Not Remove Spring Spacers placed in the suspension during shipment. This creates handling problems and a higher than normal car stance. They are hard rubber blocks put in the springs to raise the car's height during shipment. There are 10 in the front and 4 in the rear. A quick test is to see if you can insert 2 finger straight in between the top of the front tire and the fender; in the back it's 3 fingers. Anything more and you may still have the spacers and need to investigate the springs closer.
22 WINDSHIELD PITTING & BREAKAGE
Several owner's report the aerodynamics of the car seem to make the windshield susceptible to pitting and breakage from stone chips.
23 REAR AXLE NOISE
A small number of owners report Rear Axle Nuts problems. Rear axle nuts are not loose, they just need to be retorqued to keep the hub from shifting on the axle splines which make the tick tick noise. The axle nut is "staked" and will not come loose from the axle. This is distinguishable by a clicking sound during quick starts in forward or reverse; however, don't confuse this with the brake pad shift noise which is common.
24 TIRE WEAR
Many owners have reported that the tires will wear out quickly with hard driving, often with less than 8,000 to 10,000 miles. Owners are cautioned to check for wear on the inboard sides of the tires.
25 HESITATION AT HIGH RPM (MAP SENSOR)
A small number of owners report hesitation problems at high RPM's, anemic VTEC, etc. It's suspected this is due to MAP sensor problems; however, it is a an intermittent problem that is hard to show. The MAP sensor is inexpensive, about $43.
26 BUCKING IN FIRST GEAR (THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR)
A small number of owner report a bucking or jerking problem (sometimes violently) in first gear. It's suspected this is due to a bad Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Improper driving habits by someone inexperienced with a manual shift will also create this condition.
27 TRANSMISSION OIL PUMP
A very small number of owners have experienced gearbox failure related to the oil pump. Reportedly, an inadequate transmission oil pump in early '00 models may result in gearbox failure if the car is driven at high speed (over 200km/h) for extended periods of time. A recall was issued in countries where sustained high speed driving is pervasive.
Here is what one owner discovered after considerable research into this subject:
"It turns out that unloaded bearings have a tendency to fail prematurely, a few reasons being that the rollers can skid instead of roll. Also loss of lubricant has a compounding effect of overheating. And lastly the 1st gear needle bearing (the one that failed) requires the largest amount of lubricant volume, meaning it is the first to not be completely replenished. One more thing, engineers can design the tranny with smaller bearings, and with lower ratings with an oil pump*, the oil flow plays an important part in cooling the bearings, so when you take away the oil pump, it is very much NOT like a regular transmission. When oil stops, there is a much greater chance for the needle bearings to overheat, skid, skew, weaken the surface of the rollers and lead to surface deformation causing spalls and eventually a catastrophic failure, even without load. (like 1st failing while being in 6th gear). This also means trannys will fail without doing 100+ for hours. It will just take many more miles, and is circumstantial. The 100+ just brings it out almost immediately. *This doesn't mean we have smaller bearings, just that the oil pump was taken into account when they went looking for load and speed ratings.
28 DASH
A number of owner's report rattles that at first appear to be coming from the dash, which upon closer inspection are coming from the rearview mirror due to screws that have worked loose. Also, there have been complains of bubbles forming on the dash.
29 BANJO OIL JET BOLT (4-hole bolt)
In June 2002 there was a recall initiated in the Netherlands for both loose spark plugs and engine cooling / lubrication. This recall then continued to all the other European countries and England. The plug recall TSB was announced in the US July 10, and upgrades started mid-August. However, to date there's has been no mention of the banjo bolt issue in the US.
Here is what Honda UK TSB states:
(1.) Introduction – Honda Motor Company Ltd., have determined it necessary to conduct a Product Update in order to rectify a potential concern with the piston oil jet bolts on certain Honda S2000 engines.
(2.) Symptom – Under certain conditions, the lubrication and cooling of the pistons may be insufficient. If the engine is continued to be used in severe high load conditions this may result in premature wear of components and an increase in the engine operating noise level.
(3.) Cause – The flow characteristics of the oil jets may be insufficient under certain engine operating conditions.
(4.) Countermeasure – The flow characteristic of the oil jets has been changed to improve piston cooling and lubrication.
So, under certain driving circumstances there can be insufficient lubrication and cooling that can result in damage to the engine. To correct the problem, Honda changed the bolt design. It was widely reportedly Honda began installing the new design bolts after engine F20C 1102 5386; however, a Florida owner inspected his engine F20C 1102 5376 only to learn he had the updated bolts installed already. So when they started is unclear. These changes are now contained in the September 2002 dealer's parts listing. The original 2-hole design was upgraded to a new 4-hole design, which is located differently on bolt as well. The new US part number is 15290-PCX-000. List price on the bolts is about $15 each and it takes four.
To date there is still no mention of a recall in the US! In England the customer letters stated "We have discovered that under conditions of prolonged severe ongoing loading, its possible that insufficient lubrication of the engine could lead to increased noise and accelerated wear." Then it goes on to say we would like to provide you "extended engine guarantee for a period of 12 months, commencing as soon as the manufacturer's warranty has expired."
In early July 2002, Woodwork, a Honda engineer, commented that drivers in Europe use their cars differently than in the US and therefore different mechanical situations rise. He stated the banjo bolt update in Europe was not for #4 cyl scoring but rather something that he was not at liberty to discuss. In October 2002, Woodwork stated there are a lot of issues that go along with all this that he could not discuss. And concluded by saying, if some of you want to replace the banjo bolts, do it if it will make you feel better; but he added he don't think your engine cares one way or the other. Some European owner's speculate that extended high-speed driving, like 30 minutes of 120 mph+ in hot climates are what leads to the problem.
One owner had the entire job down at the dealership for $278 — 3.1 hours labor, including an oil change and the bolts.
Here's a assessment by one owner, xviper: "Honda in Europe has stated that the changeover to these bolts has nothing to do with the cylinder failures but more to do with the driving style of Europeans. Under each piston is an oil jet spray nozzle that squirts oil up under each piston. Each oil jet is attached and fed by these bolts to the underside of the engine block. The "old" bolts had two holes. The "new" bolts have 4 slightly smaller holes, supposedly providing for a more effective oil spray. Each bolt costs about 15 bucks and you need 4 of them. The whole job should take about 1 – 1.5 hours for a pro. To do the job, you must remove the oil pan, oil splash plate to access the underside of the engine where the sprayers live. The crank must be rotated so that each cylinder's sprayer can be reached due to the "big end" being in the way. Once exposed, the actual bolt swap takes only about 20 minutes for all 4. A couple of cases in Europe has been reported of inexperienced techs who put the oil bolts in wrong resulting in engine damage. One report has originated in the U.S. where the home installer stripped the threads in the engine block. He has since managed to "bandage" it back up. Not sure if it will hold or for how long. It is not a complicated job but one that has details that must be attended to. Do you need them? What are you planning to do with your car? How do you drive the thing? Extended high rpm running? Forced Induction? Track use? I did mine when I had the oil pan off anyway for a supercharger installation. I would not have bothered otherwise. Worrying about the #4 cylinder failure and how it relates to these oil bolts is a NON worthwhile exercise."
30 STALLING
A small number of owner's have experienced stalling problems. Example, a warm up engine at a stop light and the idle speed drops below 1,000 rpms. Some of the solutions included replacing the MAP sensor or the battery.
31 TOP FRAME NOISE WHEN DOWN
When the top is down, some owners hear a faint annoying clicking noise from the folded top frame just to left of their head while driving. Colder weather seems to make this condition more noticeable. One owner reports the solution is applying a small amount of Teflon lubricant to all joints. To apply he lowered the roof half way and stuffed paper towel behind the joints to catch the over spray, wiping off the excess when done. It takes a couple days for the lubricant to work in and smell to go away.
32 TOP RETRACTION PROBLEM
A small number of owners report that the top the bar just above the drivers head when the top is in the 'locked' position does not automatically come down correctly and does not stow as low as it should. It appears the center bar with the elastic retract bands attached is not moving far enough after during retraction. One dealership suggested undoing the bands and making them tighter as a fix. Another dealership replaced the elastic bands. The 3-hour job involved drilling out the old rivets and replacing the rivets and bands. The part numbers are: # 624403 w-rivet, # 624419 w-band, and # 624420 w-band set, plate.
33 PART NUMBERS
Confused about part numbers? Woodwork gave us some incite into Honda's numbering system. If you look at the last 3 digits of a Honda part number and it says -000 it is for the world. If it is -A00, or A01 etc, it was designed for the US market. A J00 is for the Japan market. etc. However, he added this is just a general rule, as the US does get J00 parts sometimes.
34 PREMATURE TOP WEAR
A small number of owners report their tops showing excessive wear and in some cases holes near the upper corners of the rear window. These appear to be cars where raise and lower their tops frequently. In most cases, Honda has been replacing them in warranty.
35 SEAT THEFT
Thieves looking to upgrade their own Honda, such as a Civic, are attracted to the expensive, race-styled seats of the S2000. In the theft process the tops may be slashed and shift knobs, etc. stolen also. In Boca Del Mar, Florida two S2000 had their seats stolen in one night. The local Honda dealer said he was aware of at least four other cases. Reportedly most thefts take place between 2 and 5am. Police recommend using a garage if possible. Apartment complexes are high targets.
36 A-ARM BRACKET
Some Autocrossers who race with R-compound tires report that the severe load under cornering will cause the upper A-Arm bracket to pull from the frame. You will first notice cracking around the attachment points beneath the undercoating. Have the points re-welded at the first opportunity.
37 DIFFERENTIAL FLUID
Per Honda's update to the article they posted in the October '01 issue of ServiceNews, you may replace the differential with any SAE 75-90 or 80-90 viscosity hypoid gear oil that's classified GL5 or GL6, not just SAE 90.
Perdón por el tocho.
Yo ya me he apuntao unos cuantos!
Editado por Storm, 07 May 2012 - 14:22:48.
