Ya se ha discutido el tema varias veces y me sigue chocando lo de que la gente diga que hay que intentar evitar hacerlo al ralentí ya que nunca se aportan razones ni datos concluyentes.
Personalmente, yo prefiero dejarlo calentar a ralentí (sin carga) a pesar de que, una vez caliente, queden otros elementos fríos (cambio, diferencial, cubiertas,...).
A ver qué les parece.
Muchas gracias.
Edit: Ok, como siempre, el burro por delante:
http://www.s2ki.com/...p-your-car-for/
I have heard and I guess it's possible that the oil pump operates more efficiently under a load. If this is true, it may be better to drive off rather than allow for a warm-up. I start my car,buckle my seat belt, select a radio station and begin driving. I live in N. Florida so temps are seldom freezing.
Keep in mind that the temp gauge is water temp, not oil. Your oil takes even longer to get up to it's optimum temperature. If you have ever driven a car with an engine oil temperature gauge you will know this first hand. Engine oil likes to be hot.
Just because you get to that 3 bar mark does not mean you are fully warm and free to vtec. You can of course, but your potential for wear is much higher if your oil is still cold. On top of that, it will take even longer for your transmission and diff fluid to warm up. I try to wait 2-3 minutes after I get to 3 bars (or whatever the "normal" reading is on other cars) before I really get on it.
And yes, I agree it is best to drive the car to warm it up.
I like to listen for the air pump to click off. That's usually when the RPM stabilizes to 1500. I guess that's about a minute if the engine isn't too cold in my garage. That's the only time I can verify that the air pump is working properly.
The coolant-to-oil heat exchanger helps with getting heat into the oil.
Just as it does getting heat out of the oil into the coolant (and out through the radiator) when needed.
It will speed-up the oil getting to operating temp.
Even more when you drive as more oil flows through the heat exchanger.
So: start, let the idle settle (maybe 5 seconds?) and drive conservatively.
I don't let her idle and warm up. It's ok to do that, but for better longetivity, it's better to start her up and get moving, keeping it at a low rpm each shift (I keep mine under 4k rpm, making sure traffic won't be an issue). I wait till the coolant temp in the dash is at normal level before pushing it over 4k rpm. Even then, I wait till my transmission is not cold (can tell by the shifter feel) before I start to really push her in any way (over 4k rpm). Seems to work out just fine.
I thought it was common knowledge that cars warm up quicker when driven than idling? Either way, I usually give it atleast a minute an i'm off.
As the manual states, about 1 minute is what takes to get the bars to start raising. That means you're within range. I subscribe to this method.
Note that one minute is a lot longer than getting in and peeling out right away
i let my car idle for the first 3-4 minutes until the engine is warmed up. ive always done that with my S, so its out of habit.
I have an AP1, I usually just wait until the secondary air pump kicks off and then start driving. Only takes about 45 seconds or a minute depending on the temp outside. Then I'm off.
The hardest part of your engines day is running while it's cold. When you let it set in your driveway and idle it takes 2-3 times longer. Part of this is because the car is hardly working and the other part is you transmission is like a big aluminum ice cube resting right up against it. If you get the transmission moving, it will warm up right along side the motor.
If you give up this useless practice, you stand to gain 20-30 miles per tank.
Edit: Por qué habla todo el mundo de 3 barras?
Uhm, un prestyling tiene 3 barras con el motor caliente y un restyling 8:
http://s2000.com/for...ture-gauge.html
Editado por Storm, 15 octubre 2012 - 16:56:08.