758 respuestas en este tema

[Supresor]

Cuando decis que vais .... que no me entero .... :ok:

[Federico]

Yo esta tarde y el sabado seguramente que también..

[Supresor]

Yo esta tarde y el sabado seguramente que también..

Pues me podias dar un toque para ir el sabado contigo tio .... hoy me es imposibol ...

[Federico]

EL sabado cuando vaya a salir te aviso, mejor te aviso el viernes.. que a ti la noche te confunde..

[angelillo]

Si vais el sabado yo me apunto, cuando sepa si puedo ir seguro te llamo fede.

Sobre que hora ireis??

[Federico]

Yo ire sobre las 12.00 hrs mas mas que menos...

[rikitaun]

buuuffff.... pinta la cosa mala......

Ayer el intento de arrancar fue malo... algo del circuito de arranque no esta bien conectado y la bomba no chuta al dar el contacto. Hicimos la ñapa de alimentar el circuito directamente y llega la sofa al motor pero los injectores dicen que va a ser que NO. No hay voltaje menos de 1v

la cosa se complica xq el Dr.Dañino no fue capaz de averiguar que puñetas falla y ademas nos pusimos a intentar desenmarañar el lio de cables que tenian conectados y casi fue peor el remedio que la enfermedad....

asi que mucho me temo que el arranque del LUDECORD TypeR ira para largo

[Supresor]

Que positivo eres Riky ...

[turbolude]

He encontrado esto, espero que os pueda servir:

"You will need the following items... one 2.2L vtec engine, tranny( not always nessecary to run but your car will not be as fast if you run another tranny) and ECU
2: Pair of jack stands, Engine Hoist, set of sockets, deep and regular..metric of course, and an open end box wrench set..you may also need a special tool to remove the crank pulley if your chaging the timing belts..i did not change mine, i inspected it..but i will change it within 6 months..just to be safe
ok...
3: pull your H23 motor..unplug the engine harness, disconnect the AC compressor, disconnect the PS pump, disconnect your clutch Slave line .you will need to disconnect this at the tranny..there is a hose that goes to a fitting..easiest to disconnect it there..again it is located right one top of the tranny, disconnect the battery and remove,remove both axles, and the intermediae shaft..you should use your axles on the new motor they will fit..I will explain later....also Make Sure YOU DRAIN ALL FLUIDS..OIL< TRANNY<COOLANT..other wise you will have a huge mess, disconnect the starter, shift linkage...take off the header..both pieces..remove the intake, disconnect all the vacumn lines attached to the intake manifold...look over the motor careully to see if there are any lines plugs ect you may have missed..hook the engine hoist up to the little meal ring on the front right of the motor, the other one is located on the rear left, on the tranny...you will want to make the engine tilt towards the passenger side to get it out..u have to clear the tranny mount on the car, so make the side hooked to the head on the right shorter....slowly raise the motor again...as u go keep checking to insure you havent missed anything..ok
4: set the motors next to each other..go through the harness..as you take off each plug on your H23 mark it with masking tape and number it...then mark the appropriate plug on your JDM H22 with tpe and the same number,,,,this helps makessure you plug the plugs into the proper places on the H23 the MAP sensor is located on the firewall..on my Swap the map sensor was on the top of the también so i lengthed the connector and left it hooked up to the también, this does differ sometimes thouh..not a big deal, also ive found that almost every motors TPS sensor( throttle position sensor is crushed) if so you will have to drill your rivets out, nd use the one off your Si motor, it is riveted onto your H23, but screws on to the JDM one weird?? oh well thank god it isnt the other way around...also i cut the Vtec solenoid wire and oil pressure switch wires at the end of myJDM harness..then stripped them out so i would have a long length of wire attached to these plugs..you will need to use these plugs...the Vtec solenoid pins are A4 and A26..A4 is green wire with a yellow stripe..you count pin locations as follows there are 2 rows top and bottom, start in the far left on top, that is A1, right below that is A2, go up and to the right A3, down again A4..so A4 is the second wire on the bottom...the pins for the Oil pressure switch are D6 and D22..there are only the plugs..the first one is A the scond one is B and the third is D...D6 should be a light blue wire..you can check where your ecu is for these wires, in some of the early models..ie 92-93..the chassis is wired for vtec..mine was...also in the engine bay..if you look at the passenger side strut tower...look in front of that like right behind where your intake tuve would pass ( it passes between the shock tower and the battery) there was two connectors monted there..one had two wires in it...both going in and coming out..the other was a single wire coming in from the car...but nohing coming out to the engine..that is the Vtec solenoid wire..again it is Green with a yellow stripe...the oil pressure switch wire is located in that little cluster of three plugs..again look for the ligt blue wire running from the inside of the car...but with no wire on the opposite side of the plug going to the engine....thats where i hooked up my wires..if your car is not prewired as such you will have to run these 2 wires into the car through the firewall and pin into your ecu
5:Swap your feul rail off your H23 onto the H22..the feul banjo bolt comes in on the wrong side in the JDM motors obviously because ther steering wheels are on the other side...make sure you use the Vtec Injectors though as hey are bigger feul wise
6: take the Vtec distributor off.it is an internal coil one..remove it from the head..take your H23 distributor and put it on in its place also use your external coil..you will need to buy a bracket from honda..that holds the external coil...or be creative and find somewhere to mount it BTW you can only put the distributors on in one way..so you cant put i on backwads, it should wiggle on, if its hard to pushon, you need to move the blade going into the head
7: remove the rear mount from your H23 and put it on the JDM vtec motor, i spent 5 hours trying to figure out why i couldnt get the mounts to line up...the mounts are different..slightly...that is the only mount u have to change
lower the motor into the car....you will want to hook up the driver side mount and the tranny mount..dont torque them down, this way you can wiggle the motor back and forth..next hook up the rear mount..this one really sucks trust me, it is no fun after you get it, install the front mount..then torque all of them down..
8: install the PS pump..ok now my motor came with a PS pump on it..i tried o use mine of My Si, however the line going to the pump would not clear the VTEC head..i couldnt use my bracket of my si..it wouldnt fit..so, i had to cut my PS hose..and have a coupling made so i could use the Hose and conection that came with the motor this may be different for you
9: connect the AC, all the coolant lines, the starter put your intake back on(wire the Vtec, disscussed earlier)..put on all your vacumn lines..there is a nipple missing on the Vtec motor..instead of 2 lines coming out of the end of the manifold there is only one..no problem..there is another one u can use..it doesnt matter..just make sure they are routed to where theyre supposed to go especially the EGR...but i found it to be very simple,seeing as the lines are exactly the same for both motors
10:install your axles..now..i bought new ones...cuz i wanted them..after buying 3 different sets from the entirely different companies..and none fitting right, cauising extreme aggravation..i bought new boots and grease and redid mine, its not very hard..also if your going to buy boot kits..buy Integra GSR boots from like discount or whereever...because if you ask for prelude ones..theyre too small, I cant explain it, they all looked them up gave me the boot..i tried right there didnt fit...so this will save you some time...take your boots apart, dont lose any of he three bearings..note this is very messy wear some latex gloves...and do it somewhere so you dont get in trouble like i did lol...you will get new grease..squirt the new grease all inside the axle..then place the other end int it..its gotta be lined up right..it will sldie inonce the boot is locked in.there will be some back and forth movement..dont worry about it its supposed to do that..now install them onto the car..make sure you put the cotter pins back into the bolts that hold the lower ball joint on..if you dont they will come off..okay..now everythings tightened..check over everything...make sure you replace all the fluids...and that all the drain plugs are in..you will need a special attachment to fill the tranny..u can get it at any parts store..and manual Honda trannys use 10w-30 motor oil...
11: install your ecu...attempt to start the car...please note..i never said to put the Belts on..ALT PS ect..i would hope you woud do this on your own....thanks...it should start...let it run..it has to warm up before Vtec will engage..so if you start it up and leave and try to hit vtec it will rev limit at 6500..and youll be yelling pissed off ect...let the car idle and warm completely up..then go for a drive...see if it engages..ect....now after youve tred to hit vtec...if u hit it good..if not it will throw a code...it may throw other codes..mine didnt throw any..if it does..u need to check them to see what thy are...well there you go, i hope this help answer some of your questions...peace!"

Salu2

[kassus]

<

Editado por kassus, 27 febrero 2018 - 10:39:39.

[turbolude]

También me he topado con esta info de los pines de las ecus ODBC 0, 1, 2a y 2b

Salu2

[angelillo]

Pues me apunto el sabado, ya hablaremos para concretar la hora. Yo puedo ir directamente a casa de dañino pero me teneis que decir que salida es y como se llega exactamente, se que es por el molar pero nada mas.

No se si arrancara pero al menos pasaremos un buen rato y seguro que aprendo algo de mecanica

[rikitaun]

Que positivo eres Riky ... 

No tio realista mas bien

que este listo para el 17 a no ser que Dañino se pegue un curro del cagalse me temo que va a ser que no....

[Federico]

Es que yo creo que hay el problema que tenemos es del inmovilizador... con la otra centralita le hacia falta solucionar lo de la resistencia de los injectores, pero con esta no hace falta lo que si pasa es que el inmobilizador no activa la bomba ni de la corriente al injector... ahi que buscar ese clable de un puto accord.....

Si alguno de vosotros va a un desguace cojerle a un accord del 2000 el clave que conecta al inmovilizador del clausor..

[Redbullet]

La llave del Lude no va con el motor del Type, no?

Ayuda de algo esto?

http://clubhondaspir...showtopic=12316

Igual el chemari tiene el libro del Accord

[angelillo]

Si os decidis por poner la centralita del accord y el inmovilizador es del mismo tipo que el del lude podeis pedir en la honda que os reprogramen la centralita pero me parece que necesitais el numero de chasis del accord para que puedan comprobar que no es robado.

Usando la centralita del lude no deberia haber problema, solo hay que comprobar que el lector del chip de la llave este bien conectado a la ecu.

[Federico]

A ver si os puedo explicar... tengo la llave del Accord y tengo lo que es la pieza del inmovilizador en si, que es un aro que va justo en el clausor.. es asi? no?... bien lo que me falta es el cable con el conector que se enchufa en el inmovilizador a la centralita... no se si me seguis..

Osea que tengo todo me falta el puto cable de mierda... y ya chequea la centralita ese inmobilizador, la historia es que claro la llave del accord la tendré siempre puesta opr ahí de tal modo que me de el arranque, pero yo siempre iré con la del prelude.. :ok:

Turbo lude muchas gracias por toda la info... :ok:

[turbolude]

Turbo lude muchas gracias por toda la info... :ok:

De nada Fede rico

Si es solo por un cable, mi pregunta es ¿No podeis fabricarlo o pedirlo en la Honda?. Si encuentro algo más sobre la centralita y Swap sobre la 4ª, te lo pongo.

Salu2

[Diego]

Yo digo lo mismo:

Si el problema es un puñetero cable, no se puede hacer uno, aunque sea provisional para ver si todo funciona y probarlo?.

[angelillo]

Claro, habra que buscar alguna forma de hacer el apaño para conectar el lector de la llave......

No vale el cable original del lude?? porque lo podemos quitar del bombin original, no lo necesitas para nada si lo haces como dices.