Muy buenas,
No he podido comentar nada hasta ahora porque he andado bastante liado y nos ocurrió el miércoles por la mañana, la víspera de salir hacia el Hellfest (http://viviendoapesa...lfest-2013.html).
Bueno, el tema es que pillé el coche por la mañana para ir a desalar el motor del barco de mi hermano antes de salir de viaje y, no sé por qué, me dió por tirar hacia la gasolinera (por ciudad) a comprobar las presiones de las ruedas en vez de meterme en la variante (120 Km/h).
El tema es que, una vez caliente el coche, me giré 90 grados en un cruce para meterme en una avenida y, según aceleraba, escuché un petardazo en el escape y noté que el motor no iba bien.
Alarmado, busqué el primer hueco que pude para aparcar y grabé los siguientes videos:
Probé a apagar y volver a encender el coche pero seguía haciendo lo mismo.
Tiré suavecito hacia casa en marchas largas mientras, de vez en cuando, me rateaba y la luz del Check Engine se me encendía y apagaba al ritmo de los rateos.
Ok, cambié de coche y me fuí a hacer mis cosillas.
Por la tarde un colega se acercó al garaje con un lector ODB Bluetooth como el de AbaliusS2000 (http://clubhondaspir...o/#entry1820776) y el Torque en el Android. Lo que nos dió:
http://clubhondaspir...-03_resized.png
http://clubhondaspir...-24_resized.png
http://clubhondaspir...-40_resized.png
Lo que estuve leyendo sobre los errores:
http://www.s2ki.com/...ht-p0302-p1399/
Hablan de cambiar bujías.
http://www.s2ki.com/...p1399-code-fix/
Finally, i took out the injectors and had them tested and cleaned. Bingo, all but one passed. The injector for cylinder 1 was only flowing at 240 (the other three were flowing at 388) after being cleaned several times. The bad injector fires normal and passed every test but the flow was still off. Its almost like its the wrong size injector.
Injectores.
http://www.s2ki.com/...isfire-n-p1399/
- Change Spark plugs
- Clean/Replace map sensor
p1399=pending
p0300=random misfire
p0301=misfire cyl. 1
p0302=misfire cyl. 2
p0303=misfire cyl. 3
p0304=misfire cyl. 4
read all my fellow s2ki forum
UpDate...after changing fuel injectors...no more cel n dtc...problem solve!..
http://www.s2ki.com/...768461-misfire/
3/17/10: well, i finally took my car the a shop. They did a compression testing:
(95, 210, 215,215). My compression in cylinder 1 was really low. Then they did a leak down testing found out my exhaust valve are leaking in cylinder 1.
What they said next was to take out the head and inspect it more. I would probably need to do a valve job. They quoted me $2,000 for the job.
http://www.s2ki.com/...i-code-p1399-p/
Well fixed the problem, but was absolutley astonished what I found in the process, and its a miracle the car was running as well as it was.
Pulled all the plugs, and oil is leaking from the rocket cover a little more than I would like so will get some new oil seals for the rocker at some point. But when I pulled the plugs they were in a serious bad way, and 2 of them were finger tight.
I have never seen plugs in such a bad way before. Put my coppers in, and car purrs like a kitten now with no CEL lights.
Very satisfying job, just need look into where I can get some plug oil seals now..
http://www.s2ki.com/...559-code-p1399/
My computer is showing me the check-engine light. It has flashed a couple of times when it is cold, but that is all. The codes from the computer are P0300-P0304, and P1399. P0300 Means random multiple misfire, and the P0301-04 is indicative of the indivudual cylinders. P0301=cyl 1, P0302=cyl 2, and so on. The only problem is I don't know what the P1399 code means. Does any body know what this code means for an S2000(ap1)? One of the suggestions is that it means a random misfire, but I'm not sure. I don't want to know what it is for another car. I have erased the codes twice, and they keep on coming back.
P1399 goes along with the 0300-0304 codes. If your CEL flashes, you need to fix something.
At the mileage, I'd suggest new spark plugs at the very least. Since you're having all cylinders acting up, less likely to be coilpacks but it can happen.
Usually with those codes, if they're still present after spark plug changes... it winds up being injectors. It's not uncommon for them to have intermittent failure at that mileage and show you those codes.
http://www.s2ki.com/...misfire-thread/
So you were trundling down the road and suddenly you got a CEL. You went to your local parts store to have them pull the codes and you got any or all of the following:
P1399 - random/multiple cylinder misfire detected
P0301 - cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0302 - cylinder 2 misfire detected
P0303 - cylinder 3 misfire detected
P0304 - cylinder 4 misfire detected
What the hell should you do now? Well, you aren't alone. Many owners are starting to get these misfire codes as the cars get older. Here are some possible causes and some solutions you can try. NOTE: after each of these clear the CEL code by following the instructions HERE to see if the CEL will come back or if you have found your solution. (MY00-05 ONLY...there is a different CEL clearing process for MY06+, using the earlier car reset procedure can ruin an MY06+ ECU)
1) Bad gasoline has gotten more common recently. This can cause the misfire codes. It can also make the car drive like crap. You can buy some HEET or Seafoam to put in your gas tank. That can help dry out water contamination. If it is some other contamination, like diesel fuel, then you will need to drain the fuel and put in fresh. This can be done by disconnecting the fuel line in the engine bay and running the fuel pump to empty the tank into a container for appropriate disposal (don't harm the environment guys).
Clear the code with the next tank of fuel. If it returns, move on to step 2.
Another type of bad gasoline can come from the car sitting for an extended period of time (more than 6mo) without fuel stabilizer. If the gasoline degrades, the resins can clog the fuel filter or fuel pump. If you car has the misfire and has sat without stabilizer you may need to check the fuel pressure. If it is low, then pull the fuel pump and check the fuel filter (it is more like a sock than a filter, but it does the job).
2) There has been one owner who reported that replacing his throttle position sensor (TPS) fixed the misfire codes. Checking the voltage is pretty easy and may spot your problem right off. The voltage reading should be in the vicinity of .30 volts at idle and in the vicinity of 4.5 volts at WOT. It should also smoothly increase from .3 to 4.5 as you slowly open the throttle...if it jumps to near zero or hops wildly, it may have a bad spot. If the TPS is bad, there are a couple choices since Honda does not sell the TPS individually. You can replace the entire throttle body or modify a generic TPS to work for the S2k. There are instructions HERE on how to do that.
Another has said his MAP caused the misfire codes. That may be the case, but I've seen several bad MAPs and I've never seen the misfire codes happen strictly because of the map. But it may be possible. You can always try the MAP whack (see the DIY sticky) or replace it with the newer zip tie style.
3) One owner has reported that a bad knock sensor caused the misfire code. So in reality there was no misfire.
The knock sensor is basically a microphone listening for sounds of detonation or pinging. If the knock sensor is loose it can rattle and cause a false misfire code. If you've recently done a clutch job an you suddenly get a misfire, there is a good chance the knock sensor is loose. Some may remove the knock sensor to get it out of the way of the tools needed to remove one of the bolts for the transmission. Then it's possible to forget to tighten it on reassembly.
A bad knock sensor generally throws it's own code (P0324-P0334), so if you aren't getting the knock sensor code then it's a gamble to replace it. The knock sensor is about $113 for MY00-05 cars and $55 for MY06+ cars from Majestic Honda.
Personally, if you're not getting the knock sensor code...I would check to see if it is loose and move on down this list. Come back to the knock sensor again if all the other components check out. The other items on this check list are more likely to be causing the misfire than the knock sensor.
4) Check that the alternator is putting out the proper amps, especially at idle. If the amps are too low, the coils will not fire properly and that can cause a misfire. With a load on the alternator where the voltage is between 12-13.5V, the amperage should be 87.5A or above.
If the misfire started after installing a ton of stereo equipment and you see the amperage is low, you may have overloaded the alternator's capacity. Pull the plug on some of your amps and try the test again.
Otherwise, you may need to replace the alternator.
5) Old spark plugs can give the misfire code. I recommend you use OEM NGK Laser Platinum PFR7G-11S. They are available at the dealer or at NAPA (PN 7772).
While the plugs are out also do step 4.
6) Do a compression test. The misfire code can be caused by a bent valve(s), cracked retainers or even valves needing adjustment. And possibly from a bad head gasket.
If you find an issue with compression, try adjusting the valve lash and retest. Adjusting the valves may also show you right off that you have a cracked retainer letting the valve begin to drop.
If you still have low compression, have a leak down test done to identify exactly what is causing the compression loss (rings or valves).
A valve can be bent by a mild over rev. Even an over rev that happened a long time ago can lead to a valve bending much later as the cracked retainer allows the valve to drop lower into the combustion chamber.
If the head gasket is the issue, you may only notice the misfire when the engine is cold. Once warm, the gasket/head/block expand sealing the gap.
Unfortunately, fixing any serious compression loss is going to be a bit expensive. :hello:
If the compression is ok, reset the CEL and see if it returns before moving to step 4.
7) Coil Packs. Hopefully, not all of the cylinders are showing a misfire. If you have one or more good cylinders, swap the coil pack from the good cyl and put in on a misfire cyl. Clear the CEL and see if it comes back. If it is the coil pack that is bad, then the misfire code should have moved to the cyl that was not having a misfire before and vis versa. Buy the new coil packs you need. Note that if one coil pack has already gone, the others will go soon. If you are on a budget, buy what you need and start saving for the rest.
If you have a misfire on all 4 cylinders you have your choice of replacing them all and hoping that is the problem OR finding a local s2k owner willing to swap coil packs for a day to see if the misfire clears up. If you can't find someone to trade coil packs with, then you have an expensive gamble...either the coil packs or the injectors are bad and there really isn't a good way to tell unless you replace one or the other.
Ignition Coil packs run about $90 each from Majestic Honda.
8) Injectors. If you've done everything else and you still have the CEL coming back after clearing, then the only thing left is injectors. You can try to have them cleaned (normal charge is about $20 per injector) to see if that clears up the misfire. However, those who I know that have tried this have found that cleaning is only a temporary fix. Replacing the injectors is the best solution.
Injectors run about $100 each from Majestic Honda (the part shows on the "intake manifold")
Installing injectors is not hard if you are at least an average mechanic, but there are a couple of tricks. I'll try to make some instructions and link them to this post.
If after all this and you still have a misfire, post up in this thread. You may have to take the car to a dealer to have them figure out the cause. But when you do find out, post up the solution and I'll add it to help other owners in the future.
I hope this helps...I know we have had at least 3 owners this week alone post up that they were getting the dreaded misfire. BTW...I've had the misfire too...twice. Once for injectors (at the time that was thought to be the primary culprit) and then again for coil packs. So yes...there can be multiple reasons for the misfire.
Good luck...
(last updated: 9/4/09)
I have a MY01 with 41,000 miles. Currently has this misfiring problem. Car will stutter at idle and will also hear the exhaust pop once in a while. Seems that the problem goes away every time I reset the ECU (pulling the backup fuse for 30 seconds or so). The problem comes back every 2-3 days. Eventually, the CEL will pop up and will generate all 5 of the misfiring codes.
Replaced the spark plugs, compression test was ok. Will try some seafoam to see if that fixes it before going the more expensive routes of the coil packs and injectors. Just find it unfortunate with such low miles that I'm running into these problems.
http://www.s2ki.com/...-to-drive-my00/
A flashing CEL means you have a major misfire which will dmg the cat. However you don't have a cat, you have a test pipe.
you have a pending code ??? so the CEL is not even on??? if so then its ok to drive,...from what i read, the light will trigger if it senses another misfire.
Be absolutely sure your spark plugs are tight. Most misfires I see are due to "I just did the plugs so it's not that".
I did a measurement on where I set the plugs, it was 26 ft-lbs. So I recommend 24 ft-lbs.
Nota: Este último hilo es COJONUDO.
Visto ésto, hemos decidido empezar de menos a más:
-Cambio de bujías: Ya le tocaba y han salido bastante feúchas pero no parece ser el problema ya que sigue haciendo lo mismo (aunque, yo diría que menos acusado, casi se nota sólamente al ralentí, y sin Check Engine, por ahora).
http://clubhondaspir...-3#entry2019537
-Reglaje de Válvulas: ?
http://clubhondaspir...je-de-valvulas/
-Bobinas:
-Injectores:
...
Editado por Storm, 26 junio 2013 - 23:46:09.
Un saludo y espero haberte ayudado
Enviado desde mi LT26i usando Tapatalk 2
(no, no estoy de coña)
