108 respuestas en este tema

[knife]

los separadores de palieres traseros ya los tengo puestos... pero la rotula del "toe-link" esta bailando una pasada y me dijo el del taller que habria que cambiarlas. 
y la rotula superior (la del brazo de suspension superior) estaba como pegada y era casi imposible de sacar de la masa, de hecho cuando voy circulando oigo un "clank-clank" que supongo que estaran por ahi los tiros.
estos son los que he estado mirando , también hay unas rotulas estilo "OEM" pero prefiero investigar un poco por aqui por si alguno tenia experiencia con esto 
 

https://robrobinette...00BallJoint.htm

[Storm]

Es decir:

-A partir de bajada de 1/2" (12,7 mms) con muelles aftermarket sobre amortiguadores OEM: Empeora el comportamiento ya que los amortiguadores no están diseñados para trabajar con nuevos muelles y altura.

-Bajada a partir de 1" (25,4 mms) con kit de muelles + amortiguadores: Usar kit trasero para corregir geometría. Menciona los delanteros pero no deben ser muy necesarios.

-Bajada a partir de 1,5" (38,1 mms): El coche empieza a tocar los topes de las suspensiones. He leído sobre ésto último y pongo detalles en el post de las Ohlins.

 

Creo que, definitivamente, no voy a hacer nada.

 

https://clubhondaspi...nsion-geometry/

 

5:50:

 

Editado por Storm, 30 mayo 2022 - 22:25:07.

[Storm]

-Separadores (espaciadores) para el diferencial (Driveshaft Spacers): Para evitar posibles vibraciones en la transmisión al acelerar por desgaste de los inboard driveshaft joints (inner CV buckets) tal y como se recoge en el TSB 02-063:
...

 

Nota: A ver si encuentro algo MUY bien explicado que estuve leyendo en su día sobre qué pasa cuando bajamos el coche y los montamos o no.

Edit: Va:

https://www.s2ki.com...red-car-693173/

 

Driveshaft Spacer Necessary for Lowered Car?
The short answer is no, you do not have to get spacers. There are other solutions should your car vibrate after lowering.
Let me show you what is happening that causes the vibration.
Here is a pic of the CV bucket and the "spider" (the set of 3 roller bearings that go in the CV bucket).
When the car is new the spider rides on a smooth surface in the CV. But as time goes on it makes a wear spot. This starts to happen by around 20k miles or so (this is very rough estimate based on folks who have complained about the vibration after lowering). The pic below shows what the wear spot looks like:
When you lower the car, it moves the spider to a new spot where it normally rides. Based on the geometry, the new spot is very close to the old spot. The vibration is caused by the spider sliding over the edge of the new spot into the old spot. It trammels back and forth there.
A spacer takes care of the vibration by moving the spider far enough away from the old wear spot so it can't trammel into the old spot. Swapping the cv buckets from right to left and vis versa fixes the vibration by giving the spider a new surface to create a new wear spot.
This is also why ap2 drivers didn't think they needed spacers. It wasn't until the ap1 was a few years old that they would have a wear spot and when owners lowered the cars after they had 20k+ miles on them they got the vibration. At that time the ap2 was brand new...and they didn't have wear spots yet.
Now, older ap2s have wear spots too and can get the vibration for the same reason the older ap1s did.
Is a spacer better than swapping the cv buckets? It depends on your mechanical skill and wallet. Swapping cv buckets is free, but does take time...you have to pull the axles. The 2-piece style spacers can save time and are easy to install, but they are $175-200. The 1-piece style are useless as they take about as much time to install as it does to swap the cv buckets.

 

 

Videos que me ha pasado Epsylon sobre el tema:

 

 

 

P.D: He dejado en el quote la explicación de por qué no hacen falta por si alguién quiere discutirlo.

[epsylon8]

Bueno , si bien entiendo lo que dice la cita es que no es necesario gastar en poner los espaciadores ya que se puede solucionar el problema gratis intercambiando de posición las cazoletas derch por la de la izqu para solucionar el problemilla.

El cual se puede solucionar tambn poniendo esos espaciadores que si bien no resulta tan económica si es más práctica y fácil de realizar.

[Storm]

Bueno , si bien entiendo lo que dice la cita es que no es necesario gastar en poner los espaciadores ya que se puede solucionar el problema gratis intercambiando de posición las cazoletas derch por la de la izqu para solucionar el problemilla.
El cual se puede solucionar tambn poniendo esos espaciadores que si bien no resulta tan económica si es más práctica y fácil de realizar.

 

Se puede hacer varias cosas...

 

...si aparece el problema. La cosa es cuándo y por qué aparece.

 

P.D: Mis cambios de alturas:

http://clubhondaspir...-3#entry2211365

http://clubhondaspir...-4#entry2212700

http://clubhondaspir...12#entry2272576

 

Ohlins:

https://clubhondaspi...11#entry2374649
 

Cuadra.

[Storm]

Honda S2000 is a well designed car for enthusiast drivers. The car performs well on the streets and can be driven fast on a race track. If the focus is more towards performance, then the car will drive even better with lowered ride height, but then the factory designed kinematics won’t work as they are supposed to. Wisefab S2000 suspension kit brings the roll center, bump steer and camber gain back to normal range, providing better roll stiffness, better handling and grip.

 

https://www.wisefab....rop-knuckle-kit

 

Honda S2000 Front Suspension Drop Knuckle Kit
€3,400.00
excluding VAT
SKU WFS22

 

Description:
-Weight saving over original components
-But still maintaining required strength and stiffness
-Over 40mm lower A-arm joint drop compare to original knuckle
-7075-T6 aluminium billet CNC knuckles and CrMo arms
-With optimized double shear deasing that provides low weight and high strenght
-CrMo rod ends and sphericals used instead of OEM style bushings.
-Easy camber adjustment on the knuckle
-Camber can be adjusted easily on trackside in just a few minutes
-Bump steer adjustment
-Bump steer is adjustable by tie rod height on the knuckle
-Quicker steering ratio
-Steering ratio is slightly quicker compared to OEM

Kit includes:
-Upper and lower control arms
-Knuckles with hardware
-Lower control arms
-Assembeled tie rods
-Hardware for caster control
-Installation guide

Other information:
-This kit assumes coilovers
-Minimum rim size is 17“
-Track width is close to original. Similar size and offset rims can be used as with original suspension
-Original wheel speed sensor can be used

 

https://www.wisefab....rop-knuckle-kit

 

Honda S2000 Rear Suspension Drop Knuckle Kit
€3,400.00
excluding VAT
SKU WFS21

 

Description:
-Weight saving over original components
-But still maintaining required strength and stiffness
-Over 40mm lower A-arm joint drop compared to original knuckle
-7075-T6 aluminium billet CNC knuckles and CrMo arms
-With optimized double shear deasing that provides low weight and high strenght
-CrMo rod ends and sphericals used instead of OEM style bushings.
-Easy camber adjustment on the knuckle
-Camber can be adjusted easily on trackside in just a few minutes
-Bump steer adjustment
-Bump steer is adjustable by tie rod height on the knuckle
-Quicker steering ratio
-Steering ratio is slightly quicker compared to OEM

Kit includes:
-Upper and lower control arms
-Knuckles with hardware
-Lower control arms
-Assembeled tie rods
-Hardware for caster control
-AP1 and AP2 spacers
-Installation guide

Other information:
-This kit assumes coilovers
-Minimum rim size is 17“
-Track width is close to original. Similar size and offset rims can be used as with original suspension
-Original wheel speed sensor can be used

[Storm]

-Anti-bumpsteer kits delantero y trasero: Para evitar posible toe-in en compresión en los dos ejes.
...

 

 

P.D: Y vuelvo a actualizar el link. Por segunda vez.

Editado por Storm, 03 marzo 2024 - 11:15:23.

[Storm]

[Storm]

Es más bien un video sobre montar unas roscadas porque no cuenta mucho sobre cuánto lo baja...

 

 

...ni sobre hacerle nada extra... pero bueno...